Back in Talkeetna

The crew is back down in the world, safe and sound in Talkeetna. They travelled down the lower parts of the Kahiltna glacier last night, thru the night and were able to get on a plane first thing this morning. Thanks to our friends at Talkeetna Air Taxi for getting up early this morning and getting them all out in time for on of the famous Road House breakfasts in town.

They plan on relaxing, eating, and catching up on sleep in Talkeetna today, and we'll bring them back to Anchorage tommorow.

Congratulations on a great effort to the guys, the weather didn't cooperate, but we're all happy to see them back down safely.

Heading down

At noon today the crew called from high camp to say that they were packing up and heading down the mountain. They put in their time and gave it all they had but the conditions on the upper mountain are not giving them any breaks. The snow has been blowing in and making for unstable conditions for the traverse above high camp to Denali pass.
They plan on getting to base camp by the 14th of July and there they will hope for good weather to fly to Talkeetna for a much deserved beer, burger and shower.

Not Today

As planned they took an acclimitization day yesterday, just hanging out, eating, and resting up for the final push to the top. Apparently they were so well rested they forgot to call last night, but there wasn't really anything to report. Everyone is doing great, and looking forward to a good day to summit. That day was not today, however, as winds and snow kept them in camp, and in their tents for most of the day. They were able to get out, walk around camp, and enjoy the stunning views from 17,200 ft.

Again they are playing the waiting game, hoping for some good weather. With some luck they will summit soon, they have done their part, now it's up to the mountain.

High Camp!!!

Bill called this evening from High Camp! They had a tough day, but everyone is up at 17,200 ft and doing great. They'll take a rest day tommorow, and then hope to go for the top.

It's good to get the news, we'll add some details tommorow.

Waiting For A Change

They called in this afternoon again from 14k camp. The wind up high is still too strong to move on up. We have another group that is sitting at high camp right now, so they are able to call them on the radio and get updates on the winds. It is blowing 30mph + still at high camp, and even stronger winds above there. So, they'll wait another day... Patience is a big part of climbing these high mountains.

The crew has been entertaining themselves with camp games, like the javelin throw with a snow probe. Sounds like they are all in high spirits still, and eating very well. One thing the weather always does on Denali is change, it's just a matter of time.

Again Today

Today was about the same as yesterday. Not much to report, but all is well. Some high winds today up high, and waiting for a change. Check out the Denali forecast at this link http://pafg.arh.noaa.gov/wmofcst.php?wmo=SXAK49PAFG&type=public

That is the same forecast that they are getting on the mountain, for what it's worth. No matter what the forecast says, they will get up in the morning, and see what it's really doing.

Another Day at 14,200 ft

Mixed weather, and new snow kept the crew from getting up to the ridge again today. They started up towards the ridge, and had to turn back. Sounds like the weather is settling down this afternoon, and they are looking forward to a better day tomorrow. Steven made it down to Anchorage, and should be on his way home soon by the sounds of it. Everybody was doing great, and looking forward to some nice weather.

Just got off the phone with the crew. They had a delicious cheesy Tortellini dinner, and are relaxing and enjoying a mellow day. They had hoped to carry a load of food, fuel, etc. to the ridge above them at about 16,400ft today, but high winds kept them in camp. Sounds like everyone is doing great and in good spirits. The weather forecast doesn't sound too bad, or too good for the next few days, so they will be ready to make their next move when the weather gives them a chance.

Good News

Bill Billmeier(lead guide) called in today! They were able to move to camp3 at 14,200 ft yesterday. Today they slept in late, ate a big breakfast, and went back down to 13,500 ft to pick up some gear they had cached there a couple days ago. This only takes a couple of hours, so it was a relatively easy day for the crew, and a chance to get used to their new altitude. This afternoon they will practice some of the skills that they will need up higher on the mountain where the terrain gets steeper. 14,200 ft camp is in a giant basin, and during the middle part of the season is home to 100+ climbers on any given day. This time of year it is quieter up there, but this is still the staging area before heading up to high camp, and the summit push. They will typically spend at least 4 nights at this camp to acclimate, and recover a bit before heading on up to high camp.

Sounds like Stephen is ready to come down, and is going to be in base camp tonight. He should be in Talkeetna tommorow if the planes can get in to base camp.

The rest of the team is doing great!

You can check out the weather on Denali at http://pafg.arh.noaa.gov/wmofcst.php?wmo=SXAK49PAFG&type=public

No News

Windy Corner, living up to its name a few weeks ago.

I haven't heard anything from the crew in a couple of days. The Camp at 11,200' is kind of in a hole, out of which it is very difficult to get any communication out from.

They should make their back carry today. This entails dropping about 20 minutes back down the trail to 10,200' where they left a cache the other day. They will dig up their supplies and load up their packs for the hour long hike back to Camp 2.

Back carry days are basically active rest days. The work for the day is pretty minimal and by doing a little work, your body actually acclimatizes batter than if you spent the day lounging in your tent.

Tomorrow they should pack loads up and around Windy Corner, a notoriously ...you guessed it...windy spot where a rocky ridge from the West Buttress drops down to the glacier. Some years this section has been heavily crevassed and involves steep traversing. This year was the easiest that I've ever seen it. It was almost flat and the crevasses were pretty mellow.

They will cache their extra kit at about 13,700' and return to Camp 2 for the night.

A successful carry to the "Corner"

The view of the West Buttress from just above the today's cache site.

The team packed up all their extra food, fuel and high altitude clothing and carried it all up to 10,200' today. We call this "making a carry." They dug a pretty deep hole in the snow, tossed all their extra kit in it and buried it so the ravens could not dig into their supplies. Ravens have been known to dig three feet into the snow to get climbers' food!

They then turned around and headed back to Camp 1 where they will spend the night. They do this to allow their bodies to adjust to the new altitude more easily. The concept is know as "carry high and sleep low" and has proven successful on big mountains for decades.

Everyone is doing great and is excited to move to Camp 2 at 11,200' tomorrow.

The team is on the glacier!

I just got word that the crew is on the Kahiltna Glacier. They flew onto the glacier on Tuesday evening and spent yesterday in Base Camp reviewing crevasse rescue skills and preparing for their move today to Camp 1.

Base Camp is a beautiful spot with monster peaks surrounding your tents. The legendary North Buttress of Mount Hunter rises a mile above you to the southeast and Mount Foraker, the second highest peak in the Range, rises more than 10,000 feet to your southwest. If the weather is clear, you get a nice view of Denali to the north, rising some 13,000 feet above your head! It is truly an awesome sight.

Webcam views of Denali

Talkeetna Air Taxi has a nice site which provides views of the mountain.

Check it out!!

http://www.talkeetnaair.com/webcam/index.html

Welcome to the Dispatch Page for Mountain Trip's June 26th Denali Climb!

Located in central Alaska, Mount McKinley (Denali) is a beacon to climbers from around the world. The challenges of organizing and executing a Denali expedition are numerous and Mountain Trip has spent the last 30+ years developing strategies for providing climbers with the best possible chace of reaching its summit. Last autumn, Eugene Harrington contacted us about organizing a private climb of the mountain for him and some friends.

Mountain Trip is proud to introduce "Team Eugene"!

The team consists of:

Eugene Harrington
Des O'Broin
Stephen Conway
Terry Kelleher
Conor Hogan
Brendan Bierne

Guides:

Bill Billmeier
Michael Burmeister
Sam Tyler